After yesterday I have been extremely careful with my ankle today, in hopes of fostering a more complete healing that will enable me to continue, albeit in a modified fashion. So this morning, after sleeping late and reading an article on ligament injuries that told me light exercise was encouraged after an initial rest period, I set out for a leisurely three hour ramble punctuated by stops at restaurants for a late breakfast and lunch. I managed to get home in some pain but not much and have proceeded to stay off the ankle for the afternoon. I also asked the hotel people if I could stay for an extra day. There is plenty to see in Leon and if this trip has to turn into more of a sightseeing venture I might as well do some of that here. And maybe get more healed up as well.
When I finish this post I will venture out again. One of the restaurants at which I was extremely timid this afternoon seems to have as its specialty something called Gulan. Internet research tells me that this is artificial baby eels manufactured from cod (I wanted to ask, but there is no way my Spanish would have stretched to understanding THAT.). Having ascertained that I can probably digest this weird looking delicacy, I think I might try it.
On to the Leon Cathedral, which I loved. Built shortly after Chartres in France, in the thirteenth century, this is Gothic architecture at its simplest, with folks who are astounded at what the techniques allow them to do with light. The stained glass is marvelous. I will admit that in the past I was told that stained glass allowed the stories of the faith to be communicated to illiterate people, sort of like permanent comic books. I'm afraid I just don't buy that anymore. It's practically impossible to see most of these stained glass windows well enough to interpret the details. It's the overall effect that is impressive and that makes your heart lift towards God. I'm sure the details were enormously important to the artists who made them and the people who commissioned them, but I don't see the actual Windows being much use as a teaching aid.
When I finish this post I will venture out again. One of the restaurants at which I was extremely timid this afternoon seems to have as its specialty something called Gulan. Internet research tells me that this is artificial baby eels manufactured from cod (I wanted to ask, but there is no way my Spanish would have stretched to understanding THAT.). Having ascertained that I can probably digest this weird looking delicacy, I think I might try it.
On to the Leon Cathedral, which I loved. Built shortly after Chartres in France, in the thirteenth century, this is Gothic architecture at its simplest, with folks who are astounded at what the techniques allow them to do with light. The stained glass is marvelous. I will admit that in the past I was told that stained glass allowed the stories of the faith to be communicated to illiterate people, sort of like permanent comic books. I'm afraid I just don't buy that anymore. It's practically impossible to see most of these stained glass windows well enough to interpret the details. It's the overall effect that is impressive and that makes your heart lift towards God. I'm sure the details were enormously important to the artists who made them and the people who commissioned them, but I don't see the actual Windows being much use as a teaching aid.
That said, during the Baroque era, the fashionable folk apparently replaced the original lower and painted front altar piece with a stylish new altar that went all the way up to the ceiling and completely covered the Eastern windows of the church. Some smart people in the eighteenth century managed to restore something more like the original altar piece, keeping only the virgin of the Baroque piece.
The audio guide pointed out some lovely symbolism in the overall sweep of the windows. The eastern windows, through which the morning sun shines represent Jesus and his life story. On the right hand, southern wall which gets direct light during the day we have Saints in the upper panes, those through whom the light of Christ shines clearly. On the left hand wall, the north, we have the prophets who pointed to Christ who never experienced him directly, as the windows do not get direct light. No word on what the western window is, beyond pretty
The audio guide called the ornate stonework of this "Thistle Gate" an example of "florid Gothic" and rejoiced that there was little of it in the cathedral.
You enter the Cathedral through immense and intricately carved wooden doors.
One of the things I enjoy and admire about Leon is its many lovely pigeons. I liked the patterns on this bird.
My photography does not do justice to the streets of Leon, but they are vigorously used by their people and are a lovely blend of old and new at least in the areas I am seeing.
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