The rhythm of daily life on the Camino really begins with the afternoon of the day before as I arrive at an Albergue. I present my passport and my credential. The hospitalero writes information down on various forms, asks for my signature, stamps my credentials and collects my 5 or 8 or 10 or 12 euros. If it is an Albergue that serves dinner they will ask if I want their meal and collect the funds for that as well. I remove my boots and store them on the shelves provided somewhere near the entrance along with my hiking poles. Then I will be shown or pointed towards my bunk. The backpack is never allowed on the bunk. Sometimes there will be shelves or lockers provided, sometimes it just goes on the floor nearby.
I have learned to loop my sleeping bag's stuff sack around the bed post or rail, so that it does not get mislaid. In the morning I will want to be able to locate it by touch. If a shower is free and my feet can stand it, then a shower and laundry come next on the agenda. Also locating a free plug for my charger. Most often I will charge up my battery and use that to charge phone and watch overnight on my bunk. But it depends what is available and when it is free. Sometimes I sneak in to the bathroom on the middle of the night to leave my battery charging.
Almost as urgent as laundry is figuring out where I hope to go the next day. This is important for several reasons. If I am shipping my pack then I need to let Correos know where it is going. I look at the guidebooks which have suggested itineraries for each day's walk. Sometimes the book will suggest a walk that is far more ambitious than I think I can manage. But it will also tell me what hills are coming up, and whether the trail itself is flat or bumpy. Some sections of the trail are agonizingly loaded with rocks that range from fist size to bread loaf size, making the footing difficult indeed. Much more common is a four to eight foot wide packed earth road. The guidebook will tell me how many albergues are in each town and how many places are available in each. Also what amenities they offer. I am most concerned with getting an Internet connection, but I sometimes I am fond of a washer and dryer. The clothes that it is most important to clean dry pretty well but I have some clothes that will not dry easily overnight and every so often it is nice to have an opportunity to get them clean. Parochial and municipal albergues will not take reservations and generally have the most beds available. I am not particularly tormented by snorers but a really large Albergue can mean that an awful lot of people are sharing the available showers and toilets. If it seems that there is a good private Albergue available where I want to go I will call ahead to make a reservation. I always ask if they speak English. They almost never do, and I plow ahead with asking if they have a reservation available for one for tomorrow. It may take several calls to find a place that is both willing to pick up their phone and that is not already full ("completo") for the following day. This done, if I am sending my pack ahead I need to send an email or call Correos to let them know. And write on the bags label where it is bound to next.
This all accomplished I head out into the town to explore for several things. If they have a church, is it open or when might it be open. More often than not, there will not be a convenient time to see inside but these little towns generally have churches that are centuries old and that have impressive artwork inside. It mostly is not exactly to my taste but it is worth seeing when I can. Sometimes there will be some sort of pilgrims mass or blessing at an hour I can manage. If I haven't eaten lunch yet, then I'm on the prowl for food. Not all bars close for siesta. Bars are usually places that serve food. I don't drink the universally available vino tinto (red wine) or cerveza (beer) but I have grown quite fond of Kas limon (carbonated lemonade) and many places also offer fresh squeezed orange juice (zumo natural). I can order bocadillos (sandwiches) in several varieties. These are made with fresh crusty bread like Italian bread. Mayonnaise or butter is not likely, by the ham here is amazingly flavorful. It does not have added water and gelatin to make it tender. Instead it has been dried to a dark flavorful red and sliced very thin. Tortillas are not at all what you would expect. They are a sort of potato frittata, diced potatoes cooked with just enough egg to hold them together. This is baked into a round pan shaped thing of which you will get a slice, generally lukewarm. Sometimes there are other things baked into this. At some bars there are taps and I find the best way to deal with these is to point to whatever looks tasty. It takes more than one to make a meal and they run between one and two euros apiece.
Pharmacies and grocery stores are closed for siesta from 2 or 3 until 5 or 6. So if I'm fast on my feet out of the Alburgue I might hit them early but usually have to return post siesta. The other thing I will try to find strolling around town is a place with a good pilgrims menu that they are willing to serve early. Usually a menu will cost about 10-12 euros and for this you get a choice of a first and second course, a dessert, bread, and wine or water. The quality of the offerings varies quite a bit, and many of the restaurants have picture menus posted so you can see what you'll be getting. Typical options for a first course are ensalada mixte which is some sort of lettuce, tomato, and tuna. At nicer places it may also have shredded pickled beets, shredded pickled carrots, olives and hard boiled eggs. Pilgrims tend to be hungry for vegetables after a few days on the trail and this is a very popular choice. Other likely options might include lentejas (lentil soup) which is generally delicious and spaghetti or some other pasta. Garlic soup, green beans, and Castilian soup, which is garlic soup with egg and bread cooked into it, have not been favorites of mine. Second courses vary. Boiled chicken, fried fish, thin slices of pork or beef cooked to a tough consistency. I have yet to see a pilgrims menu paella that impressed me. Sometimes tortilla. But if this food is far from a gourmet delight it is usually filling and nourishing. Dessert may just be an apple or may allow for choices of flan (my personal favorite when available), ice cream, yogurt or different sorts of puddings.
Dinner is rarely served before 7 so there is probably time for an afternoon nap, or to sit around and talk with fellow pilgrims. Check to see if the washing is dry. Write a blog post or catch up on email.
After dinner, I'm ready for bed, though I first try to get everything as ready as possible for the next morning. The clothes I will wear are stacked at the foot of my bed or on a bedside table. My water bottle is in my hat so that I can find it in the middle of the night. My front pack is on my bed by my side (money, ID and credit cards) if I'm at all uneasy about the place, I'm wearing it. My phone and watch are plugged into my battery and my headphones are on so that I am shielded from snoring and able, if I choose, to listen to a few minutes of a book on tape. The headphones also help with not misplacing the phone. Sometimes I set an alarm if I'm particularly anxious to get on the road early, but I try to be very careful to have the volume turned down and the headphones on when I do that. And to remember to turn it off when I'm awake before it goes off, as I almost always am.
I wake up early and get myself into the bathroom with my test kit for blood sugar, my toothbrush and my armload of clothes. I'm anxious to use the toilet before the morning rush begins. On my return to bed, I stash the last minute packing into the backpack. If I'm sending the main pack ahead, some things go into my daypack, a little lightweight thing that can carry just those items I may need during the day. Extra clean socks, suntan lotion, raincoat and pants if they might be needed. I coil up the charging cords and stash them in thei special pocket. The battery, my miniature hairbrush, and the plug adapter all go into my front pouch. Apply suntan lotion. Unless people are already up and moving I then ghost into bathroom or hall with sleeping bag and stuff sack. Stuff the sleeping bag and return for pack and daypack, putting on hat and stashing water bottle into my front pack. In the hallway, I strap my sleeping bag securely to the bottom of my pack, being sure to catch the drawstring in one of the pack's side straps so that it cannot fall off without my knowing it. I leave the big pack on the front hall with the label showing clearly, strap on my shoes, grab my poles and my daypack and I'm on the road, ideally without waking anyone else up, though others will be joining me silently as I leave or prepare to leave. I've heard people complain about other pilgrims leaving noisily but this has not been my experience-- instead people are doing all they can to be absolutely silent. Of course, accidents happen. One morning I missed the step out of the room and smashed across the foyer. But judging from continued snores I don't think many heard me.
I've greatly enjoyed being out on the road by 6 am. It's pretty light by then, though sunrise will not come for another 45 minutes. Ideally I have checked and know where the Camino path is located. It is in going through the towns that it is easiest to miss the path, and in the dim light I want to be particularly careful. But the path has been very well marked everywhere.
I don't wait for breakfast even when it is available. I'd rather stop later at the next village. By seven or at least 8, bars will be open for breakfast. Most pilgrims will stop for a coffee which I am assured is excellent if much stronger than most Americans are used to. I'll get a tea and or fresh orange juice and sometimes a tortilla. I'm also glad that the bars have bathrooms which have generally been clean and stocked with toilet paper. Some reserve them for patrons but I'm more than willing to buy something for the privilege.
Even if I had stayed to have breakfast at the Albergue I would want to stop at the village bars. They provide a break and a chance to spend a few minutes meeting fellow pilgrims. If I know that my first stops will come later, I try to carry a piece of fruit or some other light snack foods to stave off hunger.
If I'm going only about 20 k, and I've left early, then I'll probably be at my stopping place before 1:00. Possibly before the Albergue opens so I may have time for a bite to eat before the cycle repeats itself.
I have learned to loop my sleeping bag's stuff sack around the bed post or rail, so that it does not get mislaid. In the morning I will want to be able to locate it by touch. If a shower is free and my feet can stand it, then a shower and laundry come next on the agenda. Also locating a free plug for my charger. Most often I will charge up my battery and use that to charge phone and watch overnight on my bunk. But it depends what is available and when it is free. Sometimes I sneak in to the bathroom on the middle of the night to leave my battery charging.
Almost as urgent as laundry is figuring out where I hope to go the next day. This is important for several reasons. If I am shipping my pack then I need to let Correos know where it is going. I look at the guidebooks which have suggested itineraries for each day's walk. Sometimes the book will suggest a walk that is far more ambitious than I think I can manage. But it will also tell me what hills are coming up, and whether the trail itself is flat or bumpy. Some sections of the trail are agonizingly loaded with rocks that range from fist size to bread loaf size, making the footing difficult indeed. Much more common is a four to eight foot wide packed earth road. The guidebook will tell me how many albergues are in each town and how many places are available in each. Also what amenities they offer. I am most concerned with getting an Internet connection, but I sometimes I am fond of a washer and dryer. The clothes that it is most important to clean dry pretty well but I have some clothes that will not dry easily overnight and every so often it is nice to have an opportunity to get them clean. Parochial and municipal albergues will not take reservations and generally have the most beds available. I am not particularly tormented by snorers but a really large Albergue can mean that an awful lot of people are sharing the available showers and toilets. If it seems that there is a good private Albergue available where I want to go I will call ahead to make a reservation. I always ask if they speak English. They almost never do, and I plow ahead with asking if they have a reservation available for one for tomorrow. It may take several calls to find a place that is both willing to pick up their phone and that is not already full ("completo") for the following day. This done, if I am sending my pack ahead I need to send an email or call Correos to let them know. And write on the bags label where it is bound to next.
This all accomplished I head out into the town to explore for several things. If they have a church, is it open or when might it be open. More often than not, there will not be a convenient time to see inside but these little towns generally have churches that are centuries old and that have impressive artwork inside. It mostly is not exactly to my taste but it is worth seeing when I can. Sometimes there will be some sort of pilgrims mass or blessing at an hour I can manage. If I haven't eaten lunch yet, then I'm on the prowl for food. Not all bars close for siesta. Bars are usually places that serve food. I don't drink the universally available vino tinto (red wine) or cerveza (beer) but I have grown quite fond of Kas limon (carbonated lemonade) and many places also offer fresh squeezed orange juice (zumo natural). I can order bocadillos (sandwiches) in several varieties. These are made with fresh crusty bread like Italian bread. Mayonnaise or butter is not likely, by the ham here is amazingly flavorful. It does not have added water and gelatin to make it tender. Instead it has been dried to a dark flavorful red and sliced very thin. Tortillas are not at all what you would expect. They are a sort of potato frittata, diced potatoes cooked with just enough egg to hold them together. This is baked into a round pan shaped thing of which you will get a slice, generally lukewarm. Sometimes there are other things baked into this. At some bars there are taps and I find the best way to deal with these is to point to whatever looks tasty. It takes more than one to make a meal and they run between one and two euros apiece.
Pharmacies and grocery stores are closed for siesta from 2 or 3 until 5 or 6. So if I'm fast on my feet out of the Alburgue I might hit them early but usually have to return post siesta. The other thing I will try to find strolling around town is a place with a good pilgrims menu that they are willing to serve early. Usually a menu will cost about 10-12 euros and for this you get a choice of a first and second course, a dessert, bread, and wine or water. The quality of the offerings varies quite a bit, and many of the restaurants have picture menus posted so you can see what you'll be getting. Typical options for a first course are ensalada mixte which is some sort of lettuce, tomato, and tuna. At nicer places it may also have shredded pickled beets, shredded pickled carrots, olives and hard boiled eggs. Pilgrims tend to be hungry for vegetables after a few days on the trail and this is a very popular choice. Other likely options might include lentejas (lentil soup) which is generally delicious and spaghetti or some other pasta. Garlic soup, green beans, and Castilian soup, which is garlic soup with egg and bread cooked into it, have not been favorites of mine. Second courses vary. Boiled chicken, fried fish, thin slices of pork or beef cooked to a tough consistency. I have yet to see a pilgrims menu paella that impressed me. Sometimes tortilla. But if this food is far from a gourmet delight it is usually filling and nourishing. Dessert may just be an apple or may allow for choices of flan (my personal favorite when available), ice cream, yogurt or different sorts of puddings.
Dinner is rarely served before 7 so there is probably time for an afternoon nap, or to sit around and talk with fellow pilgrims. Check to see if the washing is dry. Write a blog post or catch up on email.
After dinner, I'm ready for bed, though I first try to get everything as ready as possible for the next morning. The clothes I will wear are stacked at the foot of my bed or on a bedside table. My water bottle is in my hat so that I can find it in the middle of the night. My front pack is on my bed by my side (money, ID and credit cards) if I'm at all uneasy about the place, I'm wearing it. My phone and watch are plugged into my battery and my headphones are on so that I am shielded from snoring and able, if I choose, to listen to a few minutes of a book on tape. The headphones also help with not misplacing the phone. Sometimes I set an alarm if I'm particularly anxious to get on the road early, but I try to be very careful to have the volume turned down and the headphones on when I do that. And to remember to turn it off when I'm awake before it goes off, as I almost always am.
I wake up early and get myself into the bathroom with my test kit for blood sugar, my toothbrush and my armload of clothes. I'm anxious to use the toilet before the morning rush begins. On my return to bed, I stash the last minute packing into the backpack. If I'm sending the main pack ahead, some things go into my daypack, a little lightweight thing that can carry just those items I may need during the day. Extra clean socks, suntan lotion, raincoat and pants if they might be needed. I coil up the charging cords and stash them in thei special pocket. The battery, my miniature hairbrush, and the plug adapter all go into my front pouch. Apply suntan lotion. Unless people are already up and moving I then ghost into bathroom or hall with sleeping bag and stuff sack. Stuff the sleeping bag and return for pack and daypack, putting on hat and stashing water bottle into my front pack. In the hallway, I strap my sleeping bag securely to the bottom of my pack, being sure to catch the drawstring in one of the pack's side straps so that it cannot fall off without my knowing it. I leave the big pack on the front hall with the label showing clearly, strap on my shoes, grab my poles and my daypack and I'm on the road, ideally without waking anyone else up, though others will be joining me silently as I leave or prepare to leave. I've heard people complain about other pilgrims leaving noisily but this has not been my experience-- instead people are doing all they can to be absolutely silent. Of course, accidents happen. One morning I missed the step out of the room and smashed across the foyer. But judging from continued snores I don't think many heard me.
I've greatly enjoyed being out on the road by 6 am. It's pretty light by then, though sunrise will not come for another 45 minutes. Ideally I have checked and know where the Camino path is located. It is in going through the towns that it is easiest to miss the path, and in the dim light I want to be particularly careful. But the path has been very well marked everywhere.
I don't wait for breakfast even when it is available. I'd rather stop later at the next village. By seven or at least 8, bars will be open for breakfast. Most pilgrims will stop for a coffee which I am assured is excellent if much stronger than most Americans are used to. I'll get a tea and or fresh orange juice and sometimes a tortilla. I'm also glad that the bars have bathrooms which have generally been clean and stocked with toilet paper. Some reserve them for patrons but I'm more than willing to buy something for the privilege.
Even if I had stayed to have breakfast at the Albergue I would want to stop at the village bars. They provide a break and a chance to spend a few minutes meeting fellow pilgrims. If I know that my first stops will come later, I try to carry a piece of fruit or some other light snack foods to stave off hunger.
If I'm going only about 20 k, and I've left early, then I'll probably be at my stopping place before 1:00. Possibly before the Albergue opens so I may have time for a bite to eat before the cycle repeats itself.
It's really interesting to read about your usual day... thank you for posting! :-)
ReplyDelete